The village Supienie, at the end of the village near the
road Filipów - Czarne (city bus from Suwałki), between the
lakes: Czarne (Filipowskie) and Rospuda Filipowska. The
kayaks are put down to water on the right, before the bridge
– it’s also our campsite.
Exact trail description
The trail length is 68 km, you need 5 days for it. You can
make the rally about 3 days longer if you go on the trail of
the river Blizna.
As Rospuda flows through two different regions with
different looks: Suwalski Lake District, formed by glaciers,
and the flat Augustowski Forest, the trail varies in
character – from an almost mountain river with high shores
and stones in the water, to slow lowland river with swamp on
both sides. The average fall of the river, between the lakes
Rospuda Filipowska and Rospuda Augustowska is 0,94 %, and at
some places even 3,5 %, which is much for a lowland river.
The obstacles, such as stony shallow places with fast
current or trees in the water are something negative for
some people, but they make this trail even more attractive
for the others.
Generally one could say that if you are experienced in
kayaking, the rally will be interesting for you. You can
make it in a kayak full of equipment in 3-4 days, staying
overnight on nice camping places. The trail has a big
advantage – you can make it longer by going on the river
Blizna, on which you need two days to get to Ateny at the
Blizno lake; from there you bring the kayak to Bryzgiel at
the Wigry lake, and from that place you can go to the Czarna
Hańcza trail and Augustowski Channel to Augustów. It gives
you the possibility of getting to know the whole regions of
Pojezierze Suwalskie and Puszcza Augustowska during one
Detailed trail description.
[65,0 km] SUPIENIE, at the end of the village near the road
Filipów-Czarne (bus from Suwałki), on the passage between
the lakes: Czarne (Filipowskie) and Rospuda Filipowska. A
good place for putting the kayaks on water is on the right
side before the road bridge, near a nice bay (a good camping
place). We are at the beginning of the lake Rospuda
Filipowska, called also Jemieliste (3,44 km2, length 5,8 km,
width up to 700 m, depth up to 39 m). It is the third
biggest (after Wigry and Szelment) lake of the region of
Suwałki. In the middle of the lake there is a quite big
island – a good camping place. Rospuda has very clean, dark
[59,2 km] A pass with a bridge, under which you can get to
the other side in the kayak or pulling it. Beginning of the
Kamienne lake (0,4 km2, length 2,1 km, width up to 150 m,
depth up to 20 m), looking like a part of the lake Rospuda.
[56,5 km] FILIPÓW, a little stone bridge on the local road.
500 m to the right a market place. Filipów is a big village,
local centre of trade and services. The streets still look
like in 1570, when the village was founded. Also the coat of
arms of the village – presenting a cancer – comes from that
time. In autumn of 1656 there was a great battle between
Poles and Swedes here (lost by the Poles) and the place was
Filipów lost its city rights 1870, today 1800 people live
here. Between the two world wars there were many Jews and
Germans here. That’s why Filipów has four cemeteries. It has
also: a post office (16-424 Filipów), a bank, shops, small
health centre, veterinary clinic, police station, restaurant
„Pod Lipką", cafe, bar, petrol station.
[56,1 km] Filipów, bridge on the road 652 Suwałki-Gołdap,
under the bridge strong current, rocks and a pipe on eye
height (ATTENTION!). Further on the remains of an old mill
and at the end of the village the third bridge.
[53,6 km] Długie lake (0,20 km2, length 1,3 km, width up to
200 m, depth up to 5 m). It looks like a narrow gutter with
high naked shores. A good place for angling, as the shore
sometimes becomes swampy, but you won’t find a place for
swimming or camping here.
[52,3 km] SZAFRANKI, road bridge, under the bridge some
rocks, behind the bridge a camping place. The river used to
be regulated here, so you have to be careful, as there are
still some posts in the water.
[50,7 km] ZUSNO, paved ford, camping place.
[49,4 km] MATŁAK, bridge on the road Bakałarzewo-Filipów,
under it a dangerous passage. In the village the oldest in
this region traces of people from the Stone Age have been
found (from 9500 – 6000 years ago.).
[49,2 km] Garbaś lake (1,52 km2, length 3,5 km, width up to
600 m, depth up to 48 m), The shore line is not very
interesting, at some places you find woods there. At the bay
near the western bank (opposite to the mouth of Rospuda)
there is a camping place. Mieruńska Struga (Jaworówka),
flowing from Mieruńskie Wielkie lake, with the length of 6,8
km, falls into the lake. The water in the lake is very clean
and the bottom sandy, so you can swim everywhere.
[48,3 km] You get out of the lake in a shallow place near
the road bridge. Further on, a stronger current, leading you
through the woods (the fall of water here is up to do 3,5
[47,8 km] Głębokie lake (0,12 km2, length 500 m, width up to
200 m, depth up to 17 m), on the northern shore a beautiful
forest, on the southern – fields and meadows. There are many
water plants here, which makes this lake perfect for the
fish. On the eastern bank there is a road in the woods
leading to Filipów and through Matłak to Bakałarzewo. 200 m
further is the lovely lake Siekierowo, with very clean water
and sandy shores – a great place for a swim. Behind Głębokie
lake we go through the fields, but there are many obstacles
in the water here.
[45, l km] BAKAŁARZEWO, a weir of an old, but still working
water mill, you have to carry the kayaks for 50 m on the
left side. Fro here it’s 200 m left to the market place
where you can eat something and go shopping. Lower - a
bridge on the road Suwałki-Olecko, behind it in the river
concrete blocks. Bakałarzewo is a village with 500
inhabitants (it was a town 1578-1870). The streets still
look like in a town, with a big market place and a church in
the centre. It was first called Dowspuda Bakałarzewska to
distinguish it from Dowspuda Raczkowska. There is a post
office, small health centre, youth hostel, bar, shops,
pension and private rooms to let here. The church was built
of bricks in 1936, it has two towers and inside there is an
altar from the 17th Century.
[44,7 km] Sumowo lake (l,l km2, length 3,4 km, width up to
350 m, depth up to 13,5 m), a very nice, typical gutter lake,
surrounded by nice forests, with many great camping and
swimming places. 5 streams flow into the lake on the western
side, many springs come out of it on the eastern shore. At
the narrow place where you leave the lake there is a small
bridge and a good camping place.
[40,4 km] KOTOWINA, road bridge, below it shallow stony
places (ATTENTION!). Further the river is very calm.
[38,2 km] Okrągłe lake (0,4 km2, length 1,1 km, width up to
500 m, depth up to 4,7 m) surrounded by trees, with low
banks. There are many kinds of fish in the lake, as well as
beavers. The water is green and murky. On the western (right)
bank there is a house, the only one left of a former fishing
village called Masuria, further, where Rospuda leaves the
lake, there is a nice place for a rest and a swim.
[36,6 km] Bolesty lake (1,39 km2, length 5,8 km, width up to
250 m, depth up to 15 m), the longest on the trail, looking
like a very wide river. It is also one of the most beautiful
lakes here. On the northern bank there are some woods, you
can find different kinds of berries, nuts and mushrooms
there. The southern bank of the lake is steep, many fields
are there. A road on the western side connects Kotowina and
Raczki and gives access to the lake.
[30,8 km] MAŁE RACZKI, village where Rospuda leaves the lake.
[29,5 km] Weir of a new water – power station (once a mill),
before it a road bridge. You carry the kayaks 100 m on the
right shore. Camping place.
[27,2 km] Railway bridge, pillars under it. Railway station
1,2 km on the right.
[26,5 km] RACZKI, bridge on the road 654 Olecko-Suwałki,
rocks under it. A market place where you can eat something
is 300 m on the right. It was once a town, now it is a big
village with streets looking like a few hundred years ago,
it is situated near the historical trade road from Grodno to
Prussia. Local trade and services centre, with about 1500
inhabitants. There is: a post office, small health centre,
drugstore, police station, restaurant „Rospuda", shops,
summer youth hostel here. The village called Dowspuda
Raczkowska was founded in the 16th Century. Called Raczki,
it got its city rights 1703. 1748 the town was bought by the
Pac family and it was a great time for Raczki, especially
when Ludwik Michał Pac decided to make this town the centre
of his land. The town developed according to the plans of
the famous architect Henryk Marconi. Before 1830 there were
already 2500 people living here. Unfortunately, the town
lost its city rights 1870. In the end of the 19th Century
Raczki developed again, because of the trade with Prussia.
Also between the two world wars the inhabitants of Raczki
lived from the trade with Germany. During the second world
war there were three-months-long fights near Rospuda - year
1944/1945 – and the village was destroyed. There is still a
valuable building here, a church from the 18th Century,
built according to the plans of Piotr Aigner, and rebuilt by
Henryk Marconi. There are also some houses from the 19th
[24,7 km] DOWSPUDA, a small village near Raczki on the way
to Augustów. There are two agriculture schools here,
partially in the buildings once belonging to the Pac palace.
If you stay on the river, you will recognise this place when
you see a slope on the right side, with the so called Stork
Tower before a road bridge and a nice camping place. If you
climb up the slope you will see the entrance to the palace
and the tower – the only remains of the once magnificent
[21,5 km] CHODORKI, village, bridge on the road
Raczki-Augustów. The name of the village comes from the
Russian name Fiodor, because first the people from Russia
had lived here. A good camping place. Further on the current
is fast and there are sometimes broken trees in the water.
[15,8 km] „Holy place" with crosses and a chapel, to the
left a 300 m long stream to the lake Jałowo, wooden road
bridge, camping place. Local people gather in this place on
the 24th of June to pray, eat a special meal, bath in
Jałówka, put a sacrifice of food and money at the crosses.
There is also a 700 years old cross here, making wonders.
Jałówka changes its current in spring and brings the water
from Rospuda to the lake Jałowo (0,22 km2, length 1,1 km,
width up to 350 m, depth up to 12,2 m.
[ 12,2 km] Młyńsko, road bridge. There used to be a big
water mill here, it had worked for 400 years, but today
there is no trace of it. From here to the mouth the river
flows in a valley.
[8,2 km] Campsite (Źródełko). The last camping place on the
[4,7 km] The mouth of Szczeberka on the left side, this
river is 48,1 long and flows mostly through swamps. We go
against the current and after 2,5 km we get to the road
bridge and the mouth of the river Blizna, with which we can
get to Ateny or Danowskie at the Tobołowo lake (description
[2,9 km] Rospuda Augustowska lake (1,1 km2, length 2,6 km,
width up to 500 m, depth up to 10,5 m). Ahead of us the
island „Wianek", and on the left side the peninsula „Goła
Zośka" with a once popular camping place.
[0,0 km] Ahead of us the island „Wianek", and on the left
side the peninsula „Goła Zośka" with a once popular camping
place at the Bar "Gola Zoska" End.
[0,0 km] 60,3 km from the beginning of the kayak trail of
Rospuda, 1,8 km from the place where it falls into the lake
Rospuda Augustowska is the mouth of the river Szczeberka. We
go against its current.
[2,6 km] SZCZEBRA, bridge on the road from Augustów to
Suwałki, behind it (on the right) the beginning of the river
Blizna, which falls into Szczeberka here. In the village on
the left the last grocer’s shop on the way to Ateny! The
beginning of the village was the iron production in the 16th
Century. Then an inn was built near the road from Grodno to
Raczki and further to Prussia, not going through Augustów.
Szczebra was very destroyed during both world wars. Almost
8000 Poles, Jews and Russians were shot by the Germans in
the fields belonging to the village in the years 1941 -1944,
there is a special monument here, to mark this biggest place
of executions in the region. As we go on, we turn right into
a small river with dark water.
[6 km] Railway bridge and a camping place. Railway station
„Blizna" 100 m to the left. Rocks under the bridge. Behind
the bridge on the right a stream leading to the lake Długie
(Kalejty), it is forbidden to go to the lake, as it is
environmentally protected. Ahead of us a road bridge and a
forester’s lodge, marking the beginning of the long village
STRĘKOWIZNA, on the left side. There had been small
ironworks here since 1665. You go through the village for a
very long time, because the river turns here all the time,
and at some places it is so narrow, that it is easier to use
the paddles to push the kayak along the shore than to paddle
normally. On the way there are some small bridges and a weir
where you have to carry the kayaks for 20 m.
[ 10,0 km] At the end of the village on the left a nice
camping place near the forest and the bridge on the road
connecting Przewieź and Nowinka (you pay the farmer for your
stay on it). It is a good place for a rest, because it is
not easy to pass Blizna in just one day. Before us is the
most difficult – but also most beautiful – part of the trail,
where you only go through the woods. Behind the last bridge
you can see traces of beavers everywhere. There are many
trees and branches in the water, so you have to pull or
carry the kayaks many times. At some places there is so
little water that everyone has to get out and pull the
kayaks and you only can stand it because the place is so
[ 13,0 km] Road bridge and on the right side a nice place in
the woods, the so called Uroczysko Powstańce, a part of a
walking trail from Augustów through Danowskie to Bryzgiel at
the Wigry lake. In April 1863 there was a insurgents’ camp
here, now there is a plate to commemorate it here – and a
nice place for a rest. From here it’s about 5 km more of the
river looking similarly to what we have seen.
[ 17,5 km] Bridge on the road leading to the forest
settlement UPUSTEK, you see its buildings on the right side.
[ 18,2 km] Blizno lake (2,41 km2, length 5 km, width up to
700 m, depth up to 26 m). You can find many camping places
here, as the shores are dry and there are many bays. One of
them is directly to the left from the place where Blizna
falls into the lake.
[ 18,7 km] ATENY, village with a shop, at the road between
Nowinka and Bryzg at the lake Blizno, opposite to the place
where Blizna falls into the lake, here you can find
transport for your kayaks to Bryzgiel, 6 km from here. If
you want to prolong your rally, you stay on the lake and go
on, leaving an island on the right.
[23,0 km] DANOWSKIE, a village at the eastern end of the
lake. You can get to the shore in the northern bay, near a
shop. From here you drive to Bryzgiel 5 km. If you really
want, you can try and get to the lakes Blizienko (0,39 km2,
length l km, width up to 500 m, depth up to 17,0 m) and
Tobołowo (0,87 km2, length 2,8 km, width up to 500 m, depth
up to 9,5 m), but it is not easy without a flood.